Boat Maintenance Tips

There's something truly special about a sailing championship. It's more than just a regatta; it's an opportunity to challenge yourself, explore a new venue, and become part of a community that shares your passion for sailing. Whether you’re fizzing with excitement or feeling super nervous, good preparation can make all the difference.   This guide has been put together to help you arrive prepared, confident, and ready to make the most of every moment. The better prepared you are, the more you'll be able to focus on what really matters – enjoying the experience, learning from every race, and creating memories that you'll look back on for years to come.   Give Your Boat a Thorough Check-Up We've pulled together this basic list below; it's not an exhaustive list, and it's not class-specific, but it's a fantastic place to start. You've been training hard all winter, so it's time to get your boat dialed in and ready for its Championship showcase.   If you discover an issue and aren't sure how to fix it, don't panic. Your Class Association community is often the best place to start. Class sailors and coaches have a wealth of experience and can usually offer practical advice or point you towards the manufacturer or class-approved solutions.   The Team at Rooster are always on hand to help, and true to our heritage, the team loves nothing more than tinkering with boats and finding those small improvements that help you perform at your best. Whether you need advice on maintenance, replacement parts, or essential spares, get in touch; we'd be delighted to help you arrive at the championship feeling ready to perform at your best!   Category Subcategory Check Item Hull Structure Give the hull a good once-over and look out for any cracks. Hull Structure Check the mast step for cracks or anything that doesn't look quite right. Hull Structure Look for scratches, cracks or peeling grip around the centerboard trunk. Hull Finish Tidy up any chips and scratches before they get worse. Hull Finish Make sure the self bailer opens and closes smoothly and isn't full of grit. Hull Finish Check your bung is in good condition and throw a spare in the toolbox. Mast Structure Sight up the mast and make sure it's nice and straight. Mast Structure Check fittings and rivets for corrosion, movement or wear. Mast Structure Make sure all mast sections fit together snugly. Boom Structure Check fittings and rivets are secure and corrosion-free. Sail Panels Hold the sail up to the light and look for holes, tears or thin patches. Sail Stitching Check seams are intact and not starting to pull apart. Sail Battens Make sure battens are undamaged and seated properly. Rigging Halyard(s) Look for worn spots, fraying or damaged rope. Rigging Mainsheet Check for wear and any sections that feel tired. Rigging Jib Sheet Make sure it's running smoothly and isn't showing signs of wear. Rigging Spinnaker Sheet Make sure it's running smoothly and isn't showing signs of wear. Rigging Controls Check the vang is working smoothly and still bites. Rigging Controls Make sure the outhaul runs freely and holds tension. Rigging Controls Check the cunningham isn't worn and can be adjusted easily. Rigging Controls Make sure the traveller isn’t wearing through. Rigging Bow Line Check for wear and confirm it complies with class rules. Rigging Clew Strap Give the Velcro a tug – make sure it holds. Blocks All Spin every block and make sure ratchets still sound and feel healthy. Centreboard Foil Check the leading edge for chips, dings or rough spots. Centreboard Foil Make sure the trailing edge is smooth and undamaged. Centreboard Case The board should go up and down smoothly without sticking. Centreboard Elastic Make sure the elastic still has enough life to do its job. Rudder Blade Check for damage, chips or rough areas. Rudder Stock Make sure all fittings are secure and in good condition. Rudder Tiller Look for cracks or sun damage in the universal joint – they often fail without warning. Toe Straps Webbing Check for wear where straps rub and inspect all fixings. Toe Straps Elastic Make sure the straps still spring back into position. Fasteners Hardware Check screws are tight and haven't worked loose. Fasteners Hardware Check bolts are secure and corrosion-free. Fasteners Hardware Fresh tape always looks smarter and makes spotting problems easier. Buoyancy Hatches Check seals are clean and keeping water where it belongs. Buoyancy Buoyancy Bags Inflate them and make sure they're holding air properly. Buoyancy Leak Test A bubble test can uncover leaks before they become a headache. Dolly Frame Look for rust, corrosion or signs of fatigue. Dolly Wheels Check tires are inflated and ready for a long walk to the slipway. Trailer Bearings Give them a check now rather than on the hard shoulder later. Trailer Lights Test everything before setting off. Trailer Straps Make sure straps are in good condition and still doing their job. Measurement Class Rules Double-check sail numbers are correct and clearly visible. Measurement Class Rules Make sure all required equipment is onboard and class legal.   Get the right gear The right gear really makes all the difference on the water, and the beauty of sailing means you can launch into a perfect summer day and find yourself battling through a squall by the start of race three. Staying warm, protected, and comfortable means you can focus on performance — and staying out for longer.   We've tried to take the guesswork out of packing your gear bag and created these handy what-to-wear guides. From junior sailors through to trapeze sailors, there's something for everyone.   Pack the opposite gear in your dry bag on the boat; if you've launched in glorious sunshine, make sure you've got a lightweight spray top and warm hat you can throw on if the sea breeze picks up or you take an unexpected swim. On the flip side, if you launch in a cozy Aquafleece, make sure you can peel it off between races if the sun decides to make an appearance. Top it off with a cap, a great pair of sunglasses, and plenty of sunscreen.   It can be really tempting to stash all your spares in a coach boat, but it's not always possible to get to them between races, even with the most attentive support crew. So, keep those essential pieces of gear and fuel close by in a small dry bag on your boat so you're not caught short. Hungry and cold is no way to spend a day.   Don't forget about shore-side gear too; changing facilities at major championships can be hectic. Write your name on every piece of gear you own and consider alternatives like a quick-dry poncho and changing mat if you'd rather avoid the crowds.   Spares After you've read this blog, your boat will be inspected and tuned to perfection before your regatta, but breakages do happen, even to the most prepared sailors. Either tucked into your PFD or safely stowed in your boat, we'd suggest always carrying these two secret weapons.   ·       Small Carabiner Hook – Lost a shackle? Clip it back together and keep going. ·       A length of rope around 5 feet long and 1/8"–3/16" thick – tie something back together. It won't be pretty, but it'll get you around the course.   Breakages are great challenges to overcome, but it's worth practicing solutions in a low-stress environment. What would you do if your mast webbing strap failed on your Topper? Or if your vang fitting broke on your RS Tera? Have a go on shore and then on the water, testing how you could rig a temporary fix. It could save you a huge point loss—or even better, help you rescue a friend's regatta.     Fuel Eating and drinking the right things before, during and after racing will help you stay focused, make better decisions, and maintain your energy throughout the duration of the regatta.   Before heading afloat, aim to eat a balanced meal containing slow-release carbohydrates such as oatmeal, wholegrain toast, cereal, or pasta. These foods provide a steady source of energy that will last longer than sugary snacks.   Hydration is equally important and an easy to sip on the go bottle is essential. Start drinking water as soon as you wake up and continue throughout your morning preparations at your accommodation and in the boat park. Even on cooler days, it's easy to become dehydrated without realising it, which can affect concentration and performance. A very simple rule of thumb is that you should be drinking approximately 1 litre for every race you do. This isn’t foolproof, so please adapt it for your needs and the conditions on the day.   For longer days, pack simple snacks that are easy to eat between races. Bananas, flapjacks, cereal bars, dried fruit, wraps or a sandwich are all great choices. These provide quick energy without causing a sugar crash. Try to avoid relying completely on sweets, chocolate and energy drinks. While they may give a short burst of energy, they can leave you feeling tired later in the day. With everything in life, there’s a balance to be found, make sure you’re excited to tuck into something tasty between races.   Remember: good sailors look after their boats, but great sailors also look after themselves. Fuel your body well, and you'll give yourself the best chance of performing at your best on the water.     Relish the detail by doing your homework One of the easiest ways to gain confidence before your first championship is to arrive as prepared as possible. Long before you launch your boat, there is a huge amount of information available online that can help you understand the event and venue. Start by reading the Notice of Race and Sailing Instructions so you know the format, schedule, and key rules. Watch any competitor briefings if they are available and take note of local advice.   Explore the venue on Google Maps to familiarise yourself with launching areas, race courses, parking, and facilities. Check out the club and class websites to learn more about the venue, local conditions, and previous events. You can even use Google or ChatGPT to research typical weather patterns, tides, currents, and sailing tips for the area. The more you know before you arrive, the less there is to think about when racing starts.   Good preparation won't guarantee results, but it will help you feel confident, organised, and ready to make the most of your championship experience.   Set goals that you can control Attending your first championship is exciting, but it's important to remember that success isn't just about where you finish. Rather than focusing on winning, set yourself SMART goals; goals that are Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Relevant, and Time-bound. For example, you might aim to get a front row start in at least three races, change your settings on every leg of the course, or not to be the outside boat at every mark rounding.   These are things that are within your control and can be measured throughout the event. By focusing on personal performance goals rather than results, you'll gain confidence, learn more from the experience, and finish the championship with a real sense of achievement, regardless of your overall placing.   And finally Above all, have fun. Throw yourself into the experience, make some new sailing friends, and enjoy every minute on and off the water. There will be plenty to learn, plenty to laugh about, and hopefully a few adventures along the way. Sail your best, embrace the challenge, and create some amazing memories you'll be talking about long after the championship is over.

Extract from book, to be the published "Maintenance and Recommissioning of Racing Dinghies” 1. Storage Wooden Boats.  There is only one place for an all wood or composite racing dinghy to be stored, and that is undercover in a dry storage garage, workshop or shed.  Even with modern varnishes (1 and 2 pot) and epoxy coatings, there is still a chance for water, ice & frost to penetrate the surface & joints and damage the wood. Expensive to repair once damaged, and water damage often ends up being painted over due to discoloration. Plastic boats. All glass and FRP boats will survive the UK winter climate outside but invest in a good breathable cover with a deep skirt as seen in the photo 1 - on a Solo dinghy. It will also prevent UV fading of the gelcoat as seen on this blue 2000 - See photo 2 below. Photo 1 Photo 2 - Shows typical UV fading if left unprotected, the gelcoat is slowly degraded by UV radiation causing the surface to become yellowy / white and powdery as the gelcoat is oxidized. – Can be expensive to correct. Also, I have seen ILCA/Lasers hulls that have been dry stored (and with non-breathable PVC covers - both with top and undercovers) being stored inside with damp or wet surfaces and can suffer over time from osmosis.  Make sure the carpet or protection used on the trolley cradle is dry before storing, as this will hold water and damage the hull (both wood and plastic hulls) surface over time.  2. Sail Care Remove the sails from your boat. Boats both stored outside and inside are a target for rodents to hibernate in and eat your sails and sail bags. The damage can be extensive. Give them a thorough rinse with fresh water from a hose. I hang mine up to dry on the washing line (use the mainsheet rope) and then store indoors/garage/workshop. Check for any damage around the batten pockets and headboard/luff rope area and get any repairs at your local sailmaker.   3. Spars Remove the spars from your boat, wash, dry down and then dry store if possible. Galvanic corrosion (see below photo 3 example of a RS400 s/s block mounted on the boom) can occur between the stainless-steel fittings and your aluminium mast. Note: Carbon fibre masts will not suffer from galvanic corrosion but metals in electric contact (and the presence of an electrolyte such as salt water) with carbon can cause issues.   Photo 3 - Above (red arrow) shows typical galvanic corrosion that occur between the stainless-steel fittings and your aluminium spar. If you find an issue, then remove the stainless fitting, and clean the area behind them thoroughly.  Bed the fittings down with Duralac paste applied to the entire surface when putting them back, taking care that there are no voids between fitting and mast wall where water can get in and stand. Duralac also provides corrosion protection. Also, add a smear Durlac on the screws or rivets when affixing the fitting. Duralac paste (photo 4) is a chromate containing jointing compound designed to inhibit electrolytic decomposition between dissimilar metals – often called galvanic corrosion. It is a single pack, air setting product. Used correctly, Duralac prevents anodic decomposition. Photo 4 4. Hull Upkeep Wash and polish the hull.  Many sailing areas around the coast suffer from the issue of sewage discharge into the sea and harbours.  This is especially noticeable on the light breeze days, when a light brown scum line can be seen on the waterline of your dinghy. Wash down every time you exit the water and sponge off the hull.  The discharge is stubborn to remove and will stain especially FRP/Glass boats as seen in photo 5 and can be difficult to remove without a good deal elbow grease and a product like the Facecla G3 Fine Finishing Compound to remove the staining.  Finish off with a good quality polish such as the McLube polish. Photo 5 – Pollution staining 5. Ropes and control lines  Remove and wash the control lines and sheets (remove all non-continuous control lines).  You can put the control lines in a bucket of warm water with a mild detergent to soak. The mainsheet, jib and kite sheets in a pillowcase, tie off the opening and put in a washing machine on a cool temp wash with some suitable conditioner. When the cycle is complete remove from the machine and allow to dry off before storage. 6. Security If the boat is stored - especially in the winter months in the local dinghy compound or park, make sure that the boat is tied down well, the cover is undamaged and that the securing clips are locked in place and tightened. It is important to check that your insurance covers you for winter outdoor storage. Make you own ground concrete tie down anchorage fixings if needed. (Photo 6) Photo 6 - Build your own concrete tie downs - if permissible by your club.  Use wheel clamps & hitch locks, plus padlocks and chain (photo 7) for added security. Photo 7 - A substantial wheel clamp and padlock. 7. Maintenance Deck fittings I recommend slightly loosening off the tops off your cam cleats and giving them a thorough clean with mild detergent and fresh water. When dry, apply a dab of Harken McLube OneDrop Ball Bearing Conditioner. Do not use grease or oil as this will attract salt particles next season. Damaged cam springs can be replaced, and you may need new cams/cleats if you have signs of wear on the cam teeth. Ball bearing mainsheet block systems and traveller cars need particular attention, flush through with fresh water.  It’s a good time to check traveller cars are running freely and replace if necessary. Check all rudder fitting both for galvanic corrosion between the alloy fitting and the screws/bolts. Check for tightness of all fixings. Toestraps One the most used items on the boat and take considerable amount of stress and strain during the season. They generally start to wear at the edges, around the pressed in eyelets and the mounting points (if they are screwed down via the gripper plates) check the fixing points and tighten any screws and replace any adjustment ropes as necessary toestraps should be given a good clean and thoroughly washed with freshwater. Toestraps are easily replaced and are relatively inexpensive and can smarted up an otherwise tatty hull. Check your gripper plate screws for tightness as seen in photo 8. Photo 8 - A typical toestrap gripper plate. Foils.  Rudder and daggerboards/centreboards are easy to work on indoors. Check the leading and trailing edges for signs of damage before storing away. Any gelcoat work should be done at this time in a warm (indoor) environment.   Bailers leaking? Now is the time to replace those internal rubber seals with a service kit. Otherwise, if not leaking, then just putting the bailer down and then smearing a small amount of Vaseline along the sides and back of the wedge that protrudes below the boat to keep it in good shape. Then put the bailer up and wipe off any excess.   Trailers and Trolleys. Trailers: Grease the bearings (or replace the entire hub if corroded (photo 9) or you have worn bearings - and they become noisy or stiff when rotated). Locate the grease fitting—it is the nipple (photo 10 - see the red arrow) that fits into the female end of a grease gun. Squeeze grease from the gun until bearings are well lubricated (but not too full). Photo 9 - A trailer wheel & hub in poor condition. Photo 10 - Location of the hub grease nipple. 'Milky grease' in the bearing is a sign that it has been compromised by water. If this happens, repack all bearings or replace. Lubricate your wheel nuts. Doing so will help you to loosen them when changing wheels. This is especially important if you are fixing a flat by the side of the road. Wheel nuts tend to rust easily. Use Copper Ease grease to lubricate the threads to stop them seizing. Check your tyre pressures. Check the tyre sidewall (also for sidewall perishing) for the correct pressure and ensure the tread depth is not below the legal limit. 1.6mm is the legal minimum tyre tread depth for all vehicle tyres, including trailers, a minimum of 3mm is recommended, as this ensures the safest driving - and towing - experience across all road and weather conditions. Below this level, handling can be compromised.   Trolleys Check you glass fibre cradle(s) for cracks or damaged, and repair. Replace the any damaged foam covering or use the Astro Turf matting – (See photo 11). Get any metal/welding repairs done now rather than in the middle of the sailing season.  Repairs will almost always be cheaper than the cost of a new trolley. Consider replacing your pneumatic wheels with puncture proof wheels/tyres if your boat is launched from a hard surface. (Not recommended for sandy foreshores). Photo 11 - Astro Turf matting. Astro Turf matting (photo 11) as used on the trolley cradle. Reduces water retention and possible scratching of the hull from any grit and sand held on the cradle. Consider a set of puncture proof wheels as seen in photo 12 - ideal for launching from hard surfaces. Photo 12 – A puncture proof trolley wheel Photo 13 - A wide 'beach wheel' used on for launching on sandy and soft launching areas.  If you leave you boat outside, use a decent prop, so if any water that does get in - it can drain out. -Photo 14 Photo 14 - Use a prop to support your dinghy. Final bit of advice! Investing time now to prepare your dinghy for winter will pay dividends when the warmer weather comes around, enabling you to get sailing quickly again without any fuss. You will also have helped to protect your investment for the longer term.

Name Length Diameter Type Jib sheet strop 3.4m 4mm Rooster Spectwelve (grey) Jib sheet 4.5m 6mm Rooster AllSpec Pro™ Spinnaker Sheet 12.7m 6mm Rooster AllSpec Pro™ Standard mainsheet 7.25m 9mm Rooster Polilite® 5:1 Mainsheet 10m 9mm Rooster Polilite® New rear sheeting mainsheet 12m 9mm Rooster Polilite® Mainsheet strops 2.5m 4mm Rooster Spectwelve™ Boom strops (main) 0.7m 4mm Rooster Spectwelve™ Boom strops (kicker) 0.9m 4mm Rooster Spectwelve™ Continuous kicker 13.5m 4mm Rooster EasySplice Continuos Control Line Cunningham 13.5m 4mm Rooster EasySplice Continuos Control Line Cunningham tail 1m 4mm Rooster Spectwelve™ Tramp ties 3.6m 4mm Rooster Polyloc™ Toe Strap Ties 0.8m 5mm Rooster Polyloc™ Wing pin ties 0.3m 3mm Shockcord Jib fast pin ties 0.25m 3mm Shockcord Main/Spin halyard take up 1.8m 5mm Shockcord Trapeze front 5m 5mm Shockcord Trapeze back 6m 5mm Shockcord Control line take away 3.8m 5mm Shockcord Take away block tie 0.3m 3mm Rooster Spectwelve Spinnaker sock tie 0.3m 5mm Shockcord Daggerboard Retainer 0.7m 5mm Shockcord Control line ties 0.2m 3mm Rooster AllSpec Pro™ Bowsprit launch line 3.2m 4mm Rooster Spectwelve™ Bowsprit / Spinnaker tack line 6m 4mm Rooster Spectwelve™ Spinnaker halyard 21.5m 5mm Rooster Spinfast Jib halyard 15m 4mm Rooster Halitec™ Main Halyard 21.5m 4mm Rooster Halitec™ Trapeze adjuster 1.6m 5mm Rooster Polyloc™

Since the Dinghy Show in 2014, Rooster's involvement in the 4000 class could be construed as slow but steady. Early in 2014 we introduced the new Mainsail with a modern look. We changed the cloth of the Asymmetric Spinnaker to one that was more slippery - ideal for the chute of the 4000.    Photo © Richard de Fleury Late in 2014 we started testing a new rudder stock with brass pintles. Yes brass! It seams that stainless steel is more likely to propagate cracks than brass. The old steel pintles were failing regularly so we worked closely with Sea Sure and a metallurgist consultant to create the ultimate rudder stock. We have completed the updated Gennaker Chute that will work with both the older and newer boats. The new Carbon Trailing Edge Daggerboard and Rudder Blade has been made from aluminium tooling. We have a second carbon mast in hand now that is ready for testing. The class are keen to make the boat much easier to handle in tacks and gybes, and with its foam filled top mast, even easier to right. We have had made replacement Bow U Bolts as these are starting to fail on second hand boats. They might be something we all need to consider changing before the rig comes down. I am sure we will be able to once again build and sell boats, now we have new sails, new foils and a carbon mast - it makes the sums possible that a new boat is not too far away from a second hand boat with all the extras.

Sometimes we develop good ideas ourselves; sometimes they fall in our lap. I am not taking any credit for this invention, but it is sheer brilliance on the part of a fellow Masters Laser sailor!Perhaps its because I have to spend half an hour every 6 months changing my self bailer bands, or maybe its the worry that the bailer might leak for the next sail after changing them. This is a once only solution. However, they only work on the current official (old replica) nautos® self bailers for the Laser® or ILCA...So when you open yours up for the umpteenth time to change the bands, check its a nautos® which most of them are by now) and you can fit a Rooster® Spring Plate instead of the rubber bands. They are class legal and are being manufactured under the Rooster Parts Brand. 

How to Stop Your Spinnaker Halyard Getting Jammed? When pulling it up or "your standing on the spinny halyard" When pulling it down "- ***m its re-cleated again". This short video shows you what we did recently to solve this problem. Its a development of what we have seen on a well rigged Feva and appears to make the kite sheet run smoothly. The trick is to use a stainless ring and 3mm elastic to pull the halyard to one side of the cleat - so it will not cleat - unless you get the tension when the kite reaches the top of the mast. We have also recently changed the kite halyard to some nice 4mm Spinfast: Its less sticky in the boat - runs faster and is less likely to snag. We have also been doing some boat bimbling on our mainsheet bridle system. Simple Taper with Rooster Dual Core Dual Core sheet has two Dynema cores, one inside each other. The outer sheet is easy to open up to take out the two Dynema cores, you can then cut it, taper it and feed it inside the two Dynema cores to make a smooth transition. I then sewed some whipping twine into it to make it secure at each end. To make the split bridle part - you can take the inner core out from the middle core, weave it in and out once and Bob's your uncle. You might also notice some more bimbling on the outhaul. A couple of basic loops in the end of the red and blue spectra lines for the flattener and outhaul - which quickly and safely loop around the boggles attached to the boom. Rooster Dual Core Sheet

I started this project wondering how to make a reliable Halyard using Rooster's Zero  (UMHwPE heat treated and solution dyed) equivalent to some of the best Dyneema® on the market.  Luckily I had some expert help from Derek Clark who was happy to share some of his work for the RYA, and together we tested and made a solution for the Europe. I have had one on my boat since March 2021, sailed in lots of breeze over the season in my bid to win the UK Europe National Championships just 25 years since my last title. On inspection the excellent stainless bead has only polished the Zero that takes the strain and offers me a very lightweight custom solution at the same time.  It's easy to make a quick adjustment to maximise the height of the headboard as well.   Check out the video below - I hope you find it instructive.       The video pretty much spells out how to make the halyard.  The kit is available from our UK store here.   A nice lightweight  2mm halyard line (reduces windage) is available here. Also used in the video are Rooster Serrated Scissors.    

Gelcoat First, try to buy a gelcoat either by the name of the existing hull/deck colour/shade of your boat, or if possible find out from the original manufacturer or class association the BS or RAL code of the gelcoat colour used, so that it will match the existing. See this video here for more details. Years of UV and sunlight will discolour the surface and may cause a some mis-match to getting a perfect match. You may need to mix an additional pigment to get a perfect match for your boat. For the Laser 2000 here is a handy guide to the colours v sail numbers they used see:Hull Colours | 2000 Class Association the deck moulding and hull below waterline have always been Vella Grey, except for the Purple boats which we believe were Dawn Grey. A RAL colour chart such as the above can be useful. Once you have your gelcoat, check that the gelcoat you intend to use has a small amount (approx. 2%) of styrene wax additive added. This wax additive is used to aid curing the gelcoat, and creates an air barrier so the resin can cure to a tack-free state ready for wet sanding and finishing. Always stir the contents thoroughly for at least 1 min before using and dispensing from the container. You will need to add and mix catalyst to the gelcoat to make it cure. MEKP is the standard curing agent/catalyst for polyester resins and gelcoats. How to repair small damaged areas? 1. The area of damage should be thoroughly cleaned. Loose particles should be scraped or sanded down. Very minor damage or scratches need only to be cleaned with acetone. 2. Mask up using masking tape the area, sand down with 120 grit oxide to expose & key the damaged area. Clean the area with acetone, mix the gelcoat (add any extra pigment to get the exact colour/shade) and then add the catalyst. How much Catalyst? 2% is ideal, 3% is a fast mix. Additions outside these bands in not advisable for proper curing, in fact adding more than 4% may result in a failure to cure. The pot life of the mixture is also determined by temperature and the amount of resin you are mixing in the pot etc. Appy the first coat of gelcoat mix with a small plastic spatula. The minimum temperature whilst filling, should be + 13C both the air and surface temperature.  The higher the temperature the faster the cure. Ideal temperature is 16 - 20°C Use 6 drops into 10ml of resin. (As a guide 1 UK tablespoon = 14.2ml) Curing: At 15C pot life is approx 15 mins, repair cure 1-3 hours. At higher temps, cure times will be reduced and colder, will be slower. Never work on surfaces colder that 10C and do not allow the resin or catalyst to freeze. 3. Allow to cure for 3-4 hours (depending on temperature). After 1.5 hrs at 20 deg. C the first gelcoat layer is hard and tack free. 4. Rub down the repaired area lightly with 180 grit wet and dry paper, until all unevenness is removed. Use the grades, 200, 400, 600 and 800, and finish by lightly sanding with 1000 and 1200 grade wet and dry paper. Use lots of water when rubbing down and prevent the wet and dry paper from clogging. 5. If necessary, repeat the above process and apply further quantities of mixed gelcoat and more rubbing down, finishing off with 1000/1200 grade wet and dry paper. 6. Avoid sanding outside of the damaged area (using masking tape again to protect the existing gelcoat) as one can easily rub through the existing coloured surface to expose the uncoloured laminate beneath and therefore increase the area of damage. 7. After sanding down with 1200 grade wet and dry, polish to a mirror finish using a fine rubbing compound (with a light spray of water on the surface and a damp cloth) such as Farecla G3 and then G10 and apply a good marine polish such as McLube HullKote polish to complete. The final repair completed seen here in this short video..